The Marc Jacobs Heaven party, a rave-themed New York Fashion Week rager in Elsewhere honoring the designer’s affordable cool-kid line, felt like a hilariously messy, Pzaz Energy Mist-sponsored, laser-flooded clout convention for the online famous and the actually famous. The choice of venue, Bushwick’s semi-mammoth nightclub, was genius.
Launched by Jacobs in 2020, Heaven is a 90s polysexual line of catnip: oversized sweaters with a frowning daisy design; hip-hugger cargo miniskirts, etc. The campaign of the new collection, featuring Doja Cat, Charli XCX and Pamela Anderson, showcases the rocking star ensembles that would look perfect in the Crazy Town “Butterfly” video.
On Saturday night, the vibes were clear upon arrival: A tall boy in his early twenties ran around yelling at anyone in line who would listen that he was on the list. He claimed that he was DJing later and that he had texted Marc, who personally said he could come in. The door boys were unmoved. “They have to let me in,” another girl sobbed, pushing her phone into her friend’s face. “I have 20k followers on Instagram!”
Opener Yaeji serenaded the audience with a short breakbeat set. Charli XCX, aka Bushwick’s Madonna, then took the stage with gigantic teased orange and black hair to knock out “Vroom Vroom” and “Boys” with ease before garage revivalist PinkPantheress sailed through her hottest songs.
Then things started to derail. As the crowd of beautiful influencers grew increasingly inebriated, Doja Cat’s stage time turned to chaos almost as soon as it started, due, she said, to the fact that she and her team had gotten on the wrong track. “I wish I could do a Twitter poll and give everyone what they wanted,” she said sadly, also admitting that she hadn’t rehearsed in months. Enclosed in the VIP booth, Charli XCX looked quietly stunned.
In between multiple starts and stops, Doja played classic songs like “Pretty Rave Girl” and apologized repeatedly, but finally succeeded: “Wanna do ‘Get Into it (Yuh)’ and just get the fuck out of here?” The crowd cheered.
By the time Canadian phenom Kaytranada got behind the turntables, all bets were off: A blonde girl in a whale tail thong twice ran onto the stage and had to be locked in a corner by guards.
In between the confusion, the evening had a clear climax: “Welcome to New York!” English Transplant PinkPantheress screamed when “Just for Me” started playing. “I love Taylor Swift.”
Sergio Hudson’s latest collection falls into its third year of being presented at New York Fashion Week, and in that short time, the bold, sassy sensibility of Hudson’s clubbing jumpsuits and CEO-fitting belted overcoats have captured the attention of Michelle Obama. and Kendall Jenner right. Hudson’s latest collection is an exercise in ’80s supermodel bombast, from the campy olive green mini dresses to the ultra-teased updos.
However, the designer was clearly most inspired by the power suit: pointed shoulder pads, prominent lapels and subtly flared trousers in a range of jewel-toned hues would be just as suited to Ashley Darby, a cast member of the Real Housewives of Potomac who happened to be in the audience. or one of the dozens of anatomically perfect TikTok “creators” who were animatedly networking as we queued to be seated. Helen Holmes
Private Policy presented a collection that meant so much to so many different groups of people. The brand has shifted their focus to gender fluidity, which was evident in hoodie and T-shirt silhouettes that easily translated to men, women or non-binary models. This season they also had a plus size model on their catwalks. Their commitment to gender fluidity couldn’t be better proven than by a post-runway finale performance by “RuPaul’s Drag Race Thailand” star Pangina Heals. It was a catwalk show where there was something for everyone. Kristopher Fraser