Nose: Dior documentary shows how top-secret perfume formulas were created

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The chief perfumer of the Dior fashion house shed light on the meticulous process of creating a unique base for the perfume.

François Demachy appears in the new documentary Nose, released on Amazon Prime earlier this week, as it revealed the brand’s impressive efforts to perfect its fragrances.

The creator visited farmers working 1,400 hours of manual harvesting of seven million whole jasmine flowers in his fields in Grasse, southern France.

During this time, he also traveled to Indonesia to see the rare patchouli flowers growing in their natural habitat for the first time.

François Demachy appears in the new documentary Nose, released on Amazon Prime earlier this week, as it revealed the brand’s impressive efforts to perfect its fragrances.

Francois, whose role as a perfumer has been likened to that of a ‘ballet dancer’ in the documentary, said the extreme lengths to find the perfect ingredients for a perfume were worth it.

He explained: “A perfumer is a craftsman. It takes creativity and intuition as well as a lot of expertise. It’s a kind of delicate balance between these two aspects.

The formula for creating each of the creator’s scents is stored in an immaculate spreadsheet, while every surface of his desk is covered in tiny vials of liquid.

François added: “Perfume is about human relationships. there is always a human connection. For me, perfume is in its essence, a human journey.

Meanwhile, viewers are also taken behind the scenes of a jasmine farm in Grasse, where farmers spend hundreds of hours growing the flowers for Dior fragrances.

Meanwhile, viewers are also taken behind the scenes of a jasmine farm in Grasse, where farmers spend hundreds of hours growing the flowers for Dior fragrances.

J'Adore, Miss Dior and Dior Addict are just a few of the fragrances François oversees, making sure each one adheres perfectly to the secret formulas (photo, Miss Dior)

J’Adore, Miss Dior and Dior Addict are just a few of the fragrances François oversees, making sure each one adheres perfectly to the secret formulas (photo, Miss Dior)

Meanwhile, his wife Alexandrine said that her husband’s creative process begins regularly after meeting someone new.

She explained, “ He often envisions scents based on the people he meets. It’s no surprise that women inspire her a lot.

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“Blondes, brunettes, they are all different in terms of perfume. But for him, it’s about finding what people like. This is his challenge.

“When he sees someone he thinks of, what would suit him?” What would I do for him or her? The person comes first, then the inspiration comes.

Francois revealed that his inspiration for a scent would often come from meeting a stranger, and he would set out to create the perfect scent for them.

Francois revealed that his inspiration for a scent would often come from meeting a stranger, and he would set out to create the perfect scent for them.

After being inspired by a person, François can begin to create the symphony of ingredients for the perfume.

Among the ingredients often used in Dior perfumes is patchouli, the creator traveling to Indonesia to see the flowers in their natural habitat.

He confessed he was stunned and could barely contain his emotion, revealing, “I had never seen patchouli like this here in Indonesia… I find it quite moving to witness it. This is where it all begins for perfume.

During this time, he also revealed that one of his favorite scents to use in perfume is ambergris – or whale vomit.

Ambergris is considered a marine treasure and a floating gold due to an odorless alcohol that is extracted to prolong the duration of the scent of a perfume.

HOW IS DIOR PERFUME MADE?

Dior has fields of jasmine and rose which have been used in perfumes for decades.

It takes 1,400 man-hours of flower picking to collect seven million jasmine flowers and produce one kilogram of jasmine essence.

The extensive and laborious process to create jasmine makes it twice as expensive as gold.

The essence is used in some of Dior’s signature fragrances.

It takes dozens of ingredients to make the scents which are all kept under high security, but some of them include bergamot, rose, cedarwood, tangerine, citron, cilantro, and guaiac wood. .

It is a rare secretion from whales which is used as an expensive ingredient in the production of perfumes – like Chanel No5 – to prolong its scent.

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Ambergris ‘Irish supplier Patrick Lillis explained:’ A lot of people think it must be disgusting but when they smelled it they couldn’t believe how beautiful it is.

“It’s audiophile, it catches the eyes and it keeps them on the skin. It transforms other perfumes. ‘

An odorless alcohol called amberin is extracted from ambergris and used by perfumers to extend the scent life of a perfume, especially by producers of more expensive perfumes.

The role of the head perfumer of a fashion house has been compared to that of a ballet dancer at the necessary level of training

The role of the head perfumer of a fashion house has been compared to that of a ballet dancer at the necessary level of training

Ambergris comes from sperm whales, which eat large amounts of cephalopods – marine animals such as squid, octopus, and cuttlefish.

Scientists have speculated that the substances are produced to facilitate the passage of elements most resistant to these sea creatures, such as shells and beaks, through a whale’s digestive system.

Some believe that the whales then vomit the substance, which earned him his nickname, but Richard Sabin, curator of marine animals at the Natural Museum, thinks otherwise.

During his visit to Indonesia, the perfumer was amazed to see the rare flowers in their natural habitat and could barely contain his emotion (pictured, a girl burying her face in the flowers)

During his visit to Indonesia, the perfumer was amazed to see the rare flowers in their natural habitat and could barely contain his emotion (pictured, a girl burying her face in the flowers)

Another ingredient in some of the world’s most expensive perfumes is jasmine, which the fashion house harvests at farms in Grasse.

Above all, flowers can only be picked between 8 a.m. and noon when their fragrance is at its peak.

This provides enough blooms for a single kilogram of the absolute – or base – scent used in Dior perfumes, and the manufacturing process is so expensive that the resulting jasmine ingredient costs twice as much as gold.

In their French laboratory, the absolute liquid is kept under lock and key, and even Demachy himself does not have access to it.

However, he is still in charge of selecting the exact amount of flowers needed to create these scents for the magic to happen inside the bottles.

The efforts put into developing the formulas in Dior’s private labs have proven successful, as in three months in 2016, sales of Dior’s perfumes and cosmetics jumped 9% to £ 1.02 billion.

Nose is available on Amazon Prime Direct from today

MAKE PERFUMES: ICONIC PERFUMES BY CHRISTIAN DIOR

Miss Dior: Actress Natalie Portman is the face of one of Dior’s most beloved perfumes, which contains roses from Grasse and Damascus and a peony accord, on a base of white musk notes

J’Adore: The fragrance contains essence of ylang-ylang and Damascus rose, as well as jasmine grandiflorum from Grasse and Indian jasmine sambac. Charlize Theron is her face

Dior Addict: Addict has a top note of Sicilian mandarin and white flowers, Sambac jasmine and Tunisian neroli mixed on an essence of sandalwood

Dune: A top note of mandarin with a peony accord and a vanilla base

Dolce Vita: The scent contains magnolia and cinnamon on a cedar base

Poison: This oriental classic has a top note of cilantro, layered with tuberose and opoponax – the gum from a tree that grows in Africa and the Middle East.

Les Escales des Dior: A range inspired by travel, the notes include the essence of sweet orange and pink pepper

Les Creations de Monsieur Dior: A collection of classic floral fragrances, Diorissimo, created by Christian Dior himself in 1956, combines lily of the valley with the essence of ylang-ylang, jasmine absolute and rose absolute. may

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