Oris, the Swiss watchmaker known for its accessible and often colorful watches with in-house movements, is releasing a new hand-wound caliber. Founded in 1904, Oris created some 270 mechanical timepieces through the 1970s, switching to quartz in the 1970s, as did almost every other Swiss watch manufacturer. However, in 2013, Oris started developing its own movements again, starting with caliber 110. It was the first of its caliber 100 series of hand-wound movements, featuring 10-day power reserves from a single barrel and patented non-linear power reserve indicators. Some series 100s also have calendar or second time zone functions.
In 2020, Oris ramped up production of a new series of automatic movements, the 400 series, featuring five-day power reserves, increased levels of anti-magnetism and a 10-year warranty. This year’s new 400 series movement, the caliber 473, is a hand-wound design that breathes new life into the brand’s iconic Big Crown Pointer Date model. It is based on the Oris caliber 403 automatic, with functions such as hours, minutes, small seconds and the model’s signature red hand for the date. The five-day power reserve, supported by two mainsprings, is displayed on a 120-hour indicator. It is uniquely positioned on the back of the timepiece to keep the dial uncluttered.
The new Oris Big Crown Caliber 473 features a 38mm steel case, a powder blue dial and comes with a Cervo Volante durable deerskin strap along with a new butterfly folding clasp. Cervo Volante is a training company founded in 2016 to prevent the waste of skins left over from ecological red deer in Switzerland. Today, the company produces shoes, bags and other small leather goods, as well as watch straps. The Oris Big Crown Caliber 473 is water resistant to 50 meters and costs $4,400.